Mala istorija Dior kuće

“Želeo sam da budem arhitekta. Biti dizajner je značilo da se još uvek moram povinovati pravilima arhitekture.”

Gospodin Kristijan Dior je na ovaj svet došao 21. januara 1905. godine. Rođen je u porodici bogatih proizvođača đubriva, u primorskom gradiću na obali Normandije. Preselio se u Pariz kada je imao pet godina.

Njegovi roditelji su polagali nade u to da će Kristijan jednog dana biti diplomata, međutim interesovanja su ga odvela na drugu stranu. Još kao dete je bio okrenut ka umetnosti, prodavao bi svoje skice na ulici kako bi zaradio džeparac. Kasnije u mladosti Dior zajedno sa svojim prijateljem otvara galeriju gde prodaje dela raznih umetnika uključujući i dela Pabla Pikasa.

Nažalost 1929. godina je Dioru donela velike gubitke na privatnom i poslovnom planu. Te godine on ostaje bez brata i majke, a Velika depresija donosi kolaps biznisu njegovog oca i samim tim i njegova galerija doživljava istu sudbinu.

Životni izazovi ga vode na novi put i tada započinje njegova avantura u modni svet. Počinje da radi sa modnim dizajnerom Robertom Piguetom. Krajem 1942. počinje da radi za kuću Lucien Long, gde on i Pjer Balmain postaju glavni dizajneri. Postoji i kontroverza vezana za to. Dok je radio za Lulong kuću ona je zajedno sa još nekoliko kuća poput Nine Ricci i Lanvin oblačila žene svojih okupatora, u isto vreme je Diorova sestra bila zarobljena od strane Gestapoa i bila zarobljenik u nacističkom logoru. Kasnije Dior u čast svoje sestre kreira parfem i naziva ga Miss Dior.

Uz podršku Marsela Busaka, Dior 16-og decembra 1946. godine otvara svoju modnu kuću Kristijan Dior. Zvaničan početak Diorove modne scene počinje 1947. godine sa prikazom prve kolekcije.

Ime prve kolekcije je bio “New Look”, a njegova kuma tadašnji editor Harper Bazara – Karmel Snow.

U kolekciji se predstavilo 90 drugačijih modnih komada.

Izgled kolekcije je krasila srednja dužina suknje, naglašeni struk i punije poprsje za razliku od početka 20 veka. Za prosečnu haljinu je bilo utrošeno oko 20 jardi materijala. Kolekcija je izazvala brojne kritike zbog toga zato što je bogatstvo materijalom njegove kolekcije bio kontrast mračnoj posleratnoj realnosti Evrope.

Dior ubrzo dobija na svojoj popularnosti. Njegove komade kupuju glumice poput Rite Hejvort, Margot Fontejn, Marlene Ditrih. U nekom momentu Dior je bio pozvan da održi privatnu reviju za britansku kraljevsku porodicu.

Bio je poznat po svom sujeverju. Svaka kolekcija mu je uključivala kaput koji je nazvan po njegovom mestu rođenja Grenvil. U svakoj reviji je barem jedan model nosio buket njegovog omiljenog cveća, ljiljana. Nikad ne bi planirao reviju bez prethodne konsultacije sa čitačem tarot karata.

Dior je bio prvi francuski dizajner koji se pojavio na naslovnici Time magazina.Dior je nažalost umro 1957. godine nakon trećeg srčanog udara. U to vreme je Iv Sen Loren već bio njegov asistent i postaje kreativni direktor kuće sa samo 21 godinu.

Kreativni direktori koji su oblikovali istoriju Diorove modne kuće:Iv Sen Loren, Mark Bohan, Đanfranko Fere, Džon Galiano (prvi dizajner iz Diora koji je dizajnirao haljine za princezu Dajanu, kao i i dizajner tzv. “sedlo” torbi sa prepoznatljivim logotipom), Ralf Simons i Maria Gracia. Marija dolazi na mesto kreativnog direktora 2016. godine i tako postaje prva žena kreativni direktor Diora.

A little story about house Dior

“I wanted to be an architect. Being a couturier meant that I still needed to abide by the rules of architecture.”

Mr. Christian Dior came in this world on the 21th January 1905. He was born in the wealthy family of fertilizer manufactures in the seaside town on the coast of Normandy. His family moved to Paris when he was only five years old.

His parents hoped that one day Christian would be a diplomat, but how life usually goes, things were different. As a small child his interests were in art. He was selling his skatches on the streets to provide himself a pocket money. Later in his twenties, Dior decides that he is going to open a galery with his friend. They were selling works of art of many artist include artist like Pablo Picaso.

Unfortunatelly, year of 1929. brought many loses on private and business plan in Diors life. In that year he lost his brother and mother and Big depression brings colaps in bussines that his father own. His galery got the same destiny.

Life challenges took him on the another way.

It started his adventure in the fashion world.

At first, he was working with a fashion designer Robert Piguet. In the end of year 1942. he started working for house Lucien Long, where he and Pier Balmain became main designers. There is a controversy about that story.

Lulong house with a few others like Nina Ricci and Lanvin were the houses who use to provide clothes for womens of the enemy of the country. While Dior was working for Lulong his sister was traped from Gestapo and was prisoner in the Nazi camp. Later, after war, Dior creates a parfume in the honor of his sister and gives him name “Miss Dior”.

In the year of 1946. Dior decides to open his own fashion house. He got the support of Marcel Bousak. Official start of Dior imperia was in 1947. with first fashion show.

The name of his first collection was “New Look”. Collection got its name from Harper Bazar editor- Carmel Snow.

There were 90 different designs in collection. Characteristic look for his fashion pieces was medium length skirt, stressed waist, fuller bust. It was pretty different from the beginning of 20 century. It took him about 20 yards of material for one dress. Collection brought him many critics, because opulence of his fashion designs was contrast of gloomy afterwar reality of Europe.

Very fast Dior started to gain on his popularity. His designs became the part of the wardrobe of famous actress like Rita Haiwort, Margot Fontain, Marlene Deitrich. On the big suprise Dior was even invited to put some private fashion show for British royal family.

He was known like very superstitious man. Every collection included coat which got name from his place of birth Greenvil. Every show had a model who carried bouquet of his favourite flowers, lilies of the valey. He never planed his show without consultations with his tarot reader.

Dior was first Franch designer who got his cover on the Time magazine. Unfortunatelly he dies in 1957. from the third hearth atack. Back than Dior had asistent Iv Sen Loren who was only 21 years old when he became the creative director of Dior.

Creative directors who shaped the history of Dior: Iv Sen Loran, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, John Galiano (first designer of Dior who designed dress for princess Diana, he also designed the saddle bag with very known logotip), Ralph Simons, Maria Grazia.

Maria became the creative director of Dior in 2016. That was the first time that one woman came to this position in Dior.